Star Clippers

Transatlantic Under Sail
aboard the Royal Clipper
story by R. E. Wells
reprinted from TravLtips: Sept/Oct 2004

Note: This article is intended to describe the modern concepts of Royal Clipper from a sailor's point of view with reflection to the past-the great, yet gone era of commercial sail.

Ever since the time when I was a teen-ager and working as a deckhand on local (Pacific Coast) tugboats I had often thought about what it would have been like to make a voyage on a real sailing ship-the square rigger type of ship that saw its last days in the era of commercial sail in the 1930s.
Such ships by that time were rare: a few in the Australian grain trade to Europe, a few carrying any type of cargo (e.g., guano) that was obtainable and had the possibility of making a profit for the owners.
A well known owner at that time was Gustaf Erikson of Aland, Finland who bought several of the large four-posters (mostly German) in a last effort to make a success with commercial sail. One of those ships was the German four-masted Pamir. However, with the outbreak of the Second World War, that ship was seized in 1941 under orders of the British Admiralty at Wellington, New Zealand. Being under the Finnish flag, she was considered enemy shipping.
The New Zealand government decided to put her into Pacific trade. The response from the New Zealand public to have their boys serve on her was overwhelming-a chance to go to sea on such a ship was an opportunity not to be missed by many young lads. And New Zealand had officers experienced with sail to hopefully make it a worthwhile operation. And so that ship made several voyages to North America under the New Zealand ensign-to San Francisco carrying general cargo outward and return with wheat. Losses mounted however; the costs of maintaining the ship, gear replacements, crew agreements, etc. were exceeding the voyage cargo receipts. It was decided to try voyages to Canada-to Vancouver with general cargo outward and return with wheat. But the losses continued. One last voyage to Canada saw the ship leave with a cargo of coal from Vancouver Island. That was in August 1946, the time this author had the wonderful experience of seeing such a ship, meeting some of her crew, and watching her make sail off Cape Flattery, Washington, after dropping our tow, outbound for New Zealand.
And that's why I had often thought about making a voyage in such a ship. That was the last time such a ship of commercial sail was seen on the Pacific Coast and I can well remember watching her go hull down on the horizon, wishing I could have been aboard her.
The ship was eventually given back to Finland, laid up, then reacquired by German ownership who put an engine in her and commenced to operate her as a training and cargo-carrying ship between Argentina and Europe. As such, she was tragically lost in 1957 (Hurricane Carrie) southwest of the Azores with great loss of many young lives. Only six survived from a total complement of 86.
Pamir was one of several ships of a fleet of large steel sailing ships, built in Germany and based at Hamburg for operation in the Chilean nitrate trade. The long voyage out around Cape Horn and back to Europe was achieved by many of these Flying P ships (as the line became known since all the ship names began with the letter P). Through the early years of the 20th century this trade continued, but after the First World War and into the 1920s the introduction of chemical fertilizers put an end to this trade and ships that still survived were purchased and put into other trades (i.e., Erikson of Aland).
One of these ships that had a short career was the large five-master Preussen (built in 1902 but lost off England in 1910). She had the notoriety of being the only full rigged ship (square sail on all masts) among a very few such five-posters built.
And so, with that introduction, and my chance after most of a lifetime to experience a passage on a square rigger, we now come to Royal Clipper. Inspired by the notoriety of Preussen, her owner has had this modern-day recreation designed and built in a similar style. She now operates as one of the Star Clippers fleet of passenger-carrying sailing ships in the Caribbean, Mediterranean, Far East and, seasonally, trans-ocean passages-giving those who sign on the experience of what it was like on the large sailing ships crossing oceans.
Friends of mine from New Zealand who served on Pamir way back in the 1940s (many survive and are keen members of a NZ Association, which meets regularly to recall their experiences in sail and remember their shipmates) may scoff a little at the luxury enjoyed by the passengers of Royal Clipper! She made her maiden voyage across the Atlantic in October 2000.
Her rig, compared to that of Preussen, has many modern and major innovations enabling a small crew to set or reduce sail in minutes! And there are many minor departures, perhaps not so noticeable, compared to her inspiration. Principally this involves the setting and furling of sail from three remote control stations-simply by pressing a control button which operates (opens or closes) a valve at a transfer box by each yard thus delivering hydraulic pressure to motors at the port end of each yard. These turn aluminum shafts of four-inch diameter through which the head of the sail is slotted and it operates like a blind, hauling on the sheets at deck level (pin rail and capstan at each mast foot) pulls the sail out of the yard slot and the sail is set. The topgallant and royal staysails (roller furling) are similarly set using this hydraulic system.
For bracing, (swinging the yards around to the desired tack) buttons at the three control stations operate the brace winches, again by hydraulic motors situated just forward and at the foot of each mast, winding on one set and paying out on the other, depending on which way the yards are desired to be swung.
This bracing arrangement is a modern adaptation from the old way. Three lower yards are controlled together: three wire pendants leading to the block which in turn takes the brace line to its respective winch. The other end of the brace line can be adjusted at the port or starboard side pin rail. In addition there is provision for adjustment of the middle of the three wire pendants mentioned above that delays at the pin rail at the mast foot.
Three upper yards (i.e., where royals are involved-main and middle masts) are similarly controlled although no adjustment for the middle wire pendant on these upper yards is provided. Where only two upper yards are controlled there is, of course, only two wire pendants to them.
Bracing is an important operation to enable the sails to work at their most efficient position for the prevailing wind. In old photos of the great square riggers one can observe that yards are braced so that if one could view from the top, they are all at a slightly different angle with the topmost (if royal) braced around more square to the wind. The higher the sail, the better it catches the wind being not so blanked or affected by other sails behind. This was a beautiful sight to observe when a square rigger was running under all sail-the master would "fine tune" the set of all sails by so bracing and hauling sheets to get the best out of his ship for the conditions. In the case of Royal Clipper this "fine tuning" by bracing is achieved to a degree by the arrangement of the bracing wire pendants and adjustments provided.
The overall hydraulic system concerning setting, furling and bracing works very effectively and it is a wonder to see how quickly all sail can be set or furled. The old way, where each yard was braced separately by block and tackle (towards the end of the 19th century mechanical brace winches were developed) and each sail had to be set or furled by employing sailors aloft on the yards, required many men and much time. It was a critical and often times dangerous task in heavy and cold weather; but that was part of being a seaman on those magnificent old ships.
One would note when a ship was at anchor or alongside with all sail furled, the upper yards would be in their lowered position-hence the sets of closely parallel yards. This gave better stability when not under way. Mechanical halyard winches came into use along with the brace winches and this was a great improvement for the task of raising those heavy yards.
The staysails and jibs on Royal Clipper are set via halyards and sheets (excluding the roller furling ones previously mentioned) much as on a modern yacht. The jibs are set on parallel stays giving a pleasing appearance, but a slight departure from the arrangement of ships like Preussen where the inner two jibs and the staysail were stayed to a common point on the fore topmast.
It can be observed that on the older ships there was a great amount of running rigging (Preussen had over 100,000 feet). The use of wire and chain, with mechanical winches, helped to reduce upkeep of running rigging and there was a labor saving when large single topsails and topgallants were split into two more easiy handled sizes (but on separate yards).
Royal Clipper's sail arrangement is a pleasing sight-one of symmetry where the height of sail forward and aft from her main and middle masts (with royals) diminishes. Preussen carried royals on all five masts and therefore had the more square appearance.
The courses (lower sails) on Royal Clipper have had to be reduced in depth to clear appendages on her uppermost or Sun Deck (ventilators, housings, lifeboats and tenders) but this certainly does not detract from the beauty of the arrangement with all sail set. The lowermost sails, the main course and jigger course (crossjack) are rigged in the old way with buntlines, leech and clew lines with gaskets for furling by crew on the yard-all to demonstrate for passengers how setting and taking in sail used to be done. The fore course, being clear of such housings, appendages, etc. is the larger sail.
Many additional differences were observed (new versus old). These are single pole masts with fixed yards (aluminum) rather than the traditional doubled masts with lowering yards. There are stainless steel wire shrouds and stays with swaged terminals and modern braided rope for all line (sheets, halyards, etc). Futtack shrouds (where sailors had to climb almost upside down to gain the "top" from the main shrouds) are installed as iron bars with ratlines (footropes) between. Powered capstans are by all mast foots as well as forward for headsail sheets and halyards. Hydraulic anchor windlasses are on the foredeck operating anchors housed in hawse pipes like any other modern ship. As would be expected, many other differences could be cited, but these are some that come to mind.
Royal Clipper's white hull with sheet accentuated by the broad dark blue strake with simulated gunports painted underneath, gives her a sleek yacht-like appearance. The original P-ships had all black hulls with only the sides of mid and aft raised structures trimmed in white.
The modern result in Royal Clipper not only recreates the magnificence of the large sailing ship but also achieves the desire of letting its passengers experience the power of a multitude of square sails driving a large ship of 5,000 tons across an ocean. The ship has achieved 17 knots under full sail. Those older ships like Preussen also achieved such speeds in making their fast passages out and back around Cape Horn. Indeed, just as Pruessen was one of a kind, so too is Royal Clipper.
Of course, being a passenger ship with schedules to keep, she is equipped with two 5,000 HP engines driving a single shaft with a variable pitch four-bladed propeller giving her a maximum speed under power of 13.5 knots. Auxiliary engines also provide the electrical power for her systems. She also has a bow thruster (approximately 500 HP) which makes berthing maneuverability comparable to the modern cruise ship. She has all the safety equipment and navigation systems to enable her to be rated 100A1 + at Lloyds, the highest rating for her type of service. Royal Clipper at 134 meters is a little shorter than Preussen at 148 meters but she is every bit as majestic.
Terms such as "casual elegance," and "mega-yacht experience" are used in promotions about her and may be appropriate and a prerequisite to taking passage on her for many passengers. But there will always be a more limited number of true devotees to a passage under sail, be they yachtsmen or ex-seamen, who want to observe and participate in the ship's management under sail. That desire was greatly satisfied for this author. Crew members were always helpful in answering questions and I must make particular mention of the rigger (soon to be bosun) who had trained on the Russian barque Tovarish. After several days of his help, I had been able to construct a pin rail plan whereby I learned where every line was belayed and its function. I don't think that I would have been too quick at running on call to a certain topsail sheet, but that comes with time and practice. There were 260 pins on the ship. Think of those older ships: one had to know every line and be able to run to it without hesitation. "Learning the ropes" really involved detailed training.
In conclusion, it is interesting to note that this westbound Atlantic crossing was made 100 years after the first year of operation of Preussen. Also it is significant to record that during the year 2003 the last meeting of a brotherhood of seamen from the era of sail, The International Cape Horner's Association, was held at St. Malo, France where it was formed in 1937. To qualify for membership one had to have served in sail around Cape Horn. The numbers of such seamen have so diminished over recent years, that it was decided that this, the 58th Congress of the Association, would be the last.
And so, like the end of a great era in shipping, so too the end of a now rare brotherhood of men has had to be realized. But, the likes of Royal Clipper and the opportunity to sail on her, keep that long-ago era of the seafaring life under sail somewhat still alive. It was a joy to make this passage and hopefully these words may encourage others to experience the power of wind driven driven sail driving a large ship across the seas.


Transatlantic Voyage of the
Five-Masted Full-Rigged Royal Clipper

by D. A. Eisenhauer

As a young person growing up in the historic seaport of Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, and watching fishing schooners and three- and four-masted sailing ships come and go, the lure of the sea was always present. When I was a boy, square-rigged ships were coming to the end of their commercial viability but in reading many books about the days of the square-riggers I was captivated by the romance, the trials and dangers to the captains and seamen who manned these beautiful ships. I thought that the dream of sailing on one of them would remain only in my imagination so, when the opportunity came to be a passenger on the newly commissioned
Royal Clipper on her maiden transatlantic ocean crossing, I jumped at the chance. My wife, Jo, was equally enthused and, in fact, she was the person who brought the opportunity to my attention.
Our cabin, C264, was located at the port quarter of the ship and, although it was only two decks over the engine room, there was no detectable noise or vibration from the engines during the entire trip. We were very impressed with our cabin. The walls were of dark polished wood with two portlights. There was a double bed, with one fold-down bed, which could accommodate a third person. There was adequate lighting and a closed-circuit TV, plenty of hanging locker space and drawers for storage. There was also a writing desk, a safe for valuables (with instructions for a programmable personal code) and a comfortable corner seat for reading. The bathroom was entirely marble, which was very appealing but the shower was on the small side for my 6'3" frame. There was good storage for toiletries, towels and a hair dryer. The four mirrors in the bathroom and four more in the bedroom all had beveled edges. We decided this setting would provide comfort for us during the next three weeks-a far cry from the accommodations endured by crews of early full-rigged ships!
We had beautiful weather during the entire Atlantic crossing, but there always seemed to be clouds around the horizon. Nights were clear with the stars shining brightly, since the night sky was not invaded with city lights. It was wonderful to go on deck in shirtsleeves after the evening dinner and watch the sky, with the masts and sails gently swaying against the stars. Captain Uli arranged to sail by day and, if it became necessary to make up time, the engines would only be used at night. Our speed under sail in a fresh breeze was mostly ten to 12 knots.
Passengers had the full run of the ship including the bridge, which was only out of bounds during watch changes. Some people preferred sunning on the deck and tried to find a spot out of the breeze. Others chose to find other activities with some of us climbing to the crow's nest, or going forward and relaxing in the net forward of the bow and on either side of the bowsprit. To view the ship from that location with its jibs, staysails and squaresails full was really a romantic and thrilling sight. When the officers were not occupied with running the ship, they were always friendly and informative. A tour of the engine room was arranged for those who were interested.
The food was excellent, with breakfast and lunch buffet style with a great selection of soups, fresh salads and fish, meat and other delectables; and there was a broad selection of desserts. The evening meal was served by stewards from a menu with several choices and a selection of wines. Friendly staff manned bars at both the Tropical Deck and Top Deck. Snacks were provided at midafternoon and late into the evening.
The Clipper Dining Room is located at the center of the ship, and is attractively designed with curved stairway entry both fore and aft-and with a grand piano at an intermediate mezzanine level and a lounge at a higher mezzanine. The Dining Room tables are located on three levels with two steps between each level. The walls contain interesting marine paintings. The dining area is non-smoking, but there is a smaller dining area on the starboard side just aft of the main Dining Room for smokers.
Cleaning staff were always working and keeping Royal Clipper in shining condition. Cabin stewards were very friendly and helpful. The officers and crew were also friendly and always prepared to answer questions.
Royal Clipper provides many amenities for its passengers. The Captain Nemo Lounge, located on a lower deck at the bow, provides a staff of beauticians as well as exercise equipment. There are also portlights located here for underwater viewing. Above this and close to the bow is the Observation Lounge. There were three small pools on the top deck, the larger of which has a glass bottom that is part of the Dining Room's ceiling, and was used frequently by a few swimmers. The lounge on the Dining Room mezzanine was popular for inside reading and had a bar at the aft end. The Tropical Deck and bar was very popular, and the library at the aft end of the Tropical Deck was a quiet place to read. The Sloop Shop was located just off the hallway leading to our cabin. It sold clothes and other souvenirs with both the Star Clipper and Royal Clipper logos, and served as the Purser's Desk. In the stern of the ship, there is a large hatch that can be let down hydraulically to the water's edge and serves as a marina. This would be very useful when in the Caribbean, as Royal Clipper carries a sports staff and small boats; snorkeling and diving can be done by passengers.
For both Jo and me, it was a fantastic trip and great experience to have done a transatlantic crossing on a five-masted full-rigged ship. It was the kind of trip we never dreamed would be available to us, because we never imagined that this type of ship would ever be built for pleasure cruising.

D. A. Eisenhauaer, Nova Scotia, Canada.

The 439-foot Royal Clipper accommodates up to 227 passengers. The design of the five-masted fully-rigged sailing ship is inspired by the legendary tall ship Preussen which dominated the seas shortly after the turn of the last century. The Royal Clipper is the largest sailing ship built since that earlier era. Passenger accommodations and amenities, however, are the equal of the finest modern yacht. All outside cabins are thoughtfully designed and feature private marble bathrooms, hair dryers, private safe and TV. There are a few minimum-priced inside cabins that are smaller with more modest amenities. Public areas include a forward observation lounge, library, Tropical Bar, the elegant three-tiered Clipper Dining Room and the Captain Nemo Lounge with spa facilities and underwater viewing portholes. With her 42 sails deployed, she navigates under 56,000 feet of sail. There is plenty of deck space and three small pools.
If interested in details, contact the TravLtips Specialty Cruise office at 800-872-8584.